Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 11:32:41 -0400
Subject: Electromagnetic Harassment Shield: Richard Serra
28 September 1997
Source: http://www.mk.net/~mcf/shield.htm#toc
----------------------------------------------------------------
Shielding Against Electromagnetic Harassment
by "Raven1"
----------------------------------------------------------------
Caveat
It's possible that any success Raven1 is having is being allowed
by her controllers. She reports that they seem to progressively
break through each advance she makes.
----------------------------------------------------------------
This report is by an anonymous Canadian victim from the Internet,
"Raven1."
She requests feedback at raven1-AT-netaccess.on.ca
----------------------------------------------------------------
Original Article Contents (chronological)
Introduction
RE: Technical Jargon
This Writer's Experience
Proposed Shielding Experiment
"Mu Metal"
Steel Chain
Steel Buttons
Shielding vs. Non-Burning Harassment
Stealth Paint
Possible Shielding Setback
Hopeful Note re: Shielding Setback
Quick, Easy Test to See If Solid Steel Helps
Repeating a Recommendation from Julianne McKinney
"Grounding"
Forced Ventilation
Selection of a Fan
Ventilation Ducting
Ancillary Cables Into the Sleeping Box
Request for Feedback
Skin-Contact Shielding
Finding the Aiming Direction
Skin Contact Materials
----------------------------------------------------------------
Introduction
What follows is a set of notes based on the experience of one
electromagnetic harassment victim where some of the harassment
effects have been reduced and sometimes eliminated by shielding.
Any reader who tries various types of shielding is invited to
write to raven1-AT-netaccess.on.ca for further information.
Reports of what works and what doesn't would also be very much
appreciated.
August 25, 1996
RE: Technical Jargon
Note: Apologies to readers who may not understand technical jargon
or who are unable to do the metalwork described in these notes.
The idea is that those readers who can afford to experiment with
shielding may have access to helpers and/or local tradesmen who
will understand.
This Writer's Experience
I experience two main forms of electronic harassment:
electromagnetically triggered muscle jerking
electromagnetically generated burns on my skin and some
internal parts
I have had some success in shielding with the burns. Thought I'd
pass the progress to date along for your information. I'd like to
remain anonymous.
My guess is that it is possible to reduce or even eliminate the
'voices' type of mind control harassment with enough shielding, at
least while asleep. It is public knowledge (it's patented) that
microwave is used for transmitting the voices. Microwave can be
stopped.
We can't walk around in medieval armour, of course, but 8 hours
of harassment-free sleep would be a major improvement in victims'
quality of life.
As further experimentation demonstrates more things to try, I'll
pass them on also.
Here is a quick progress report on shielding experimentation to
date:
The 'cigarette burns' are very likely from a microwave device,
possibly a 'maser' (a microwave counterpart of a laser). Microwave
can be stopped by appropriate shielding, unlike direct ELF waves
from a nearby antenna.
In my case, I've tried these materials:
heavy steel mesh
aluminum foil
copper sheet
solid steel sheet
Only solid steel sheet has been any help at all for shielding which
is not placed against the skin. I have covered about 90% of my bed
with solid sheet steel obtained from a supplier of industrial
shelving. Panels range from (approximately) 24" x 48" up to 48" x 48"
and come with very handy bolt holes for attaching screws or hanger
rope and wire. The steel is painted and clean.
(See September 1, 1996 note below for shielding in skin contact.)
Due to suspension chains holding my be 4 feet above the floor
(necessary to reduce fields sent from below) I haven't quite been
able to get 100% coverage.
It is that 10% gap, for suspension chains (and ventilation) which
provides my harassers the chance to aim their maser inside. Even if
they can't aim directly at me, a maser beam will bounce around quite
a bit inside the steel shell around my bed.
Proposed Shielding Experiment
I'm going to try next an experiment using an office supplies cabinet,
30" x 18" x 72", and a sleeping bag to see if totally sealing off
all aiming directions will help. My harassers are so close that it
may not help 100%, but I'm confident it will reduce the burns. (I
will have to wait a month or two until my budget can support
the purchase.)
I'll use a small fan ducted through a 3" plumbing iron pipe nipple
at the top and bottom of the cabinet for ventilation. If reasonably
successful, I may get some radar absorptive paint and put together a
baffle for each end through which microwave will be absorbed before
it gets inside.
I'm passing this cabinet idea along so that others who may not have
their harassers in an adjacent apt. or who can afford to try the
cabinet sooner might see if it helps. I do know that when the aiming
point is known, even at my close range, those panels DO stop most of
the microwave, where the other metals don't.
"Mu Metal"
There is a metal alloy called 'mu metal' which is supposed to be more
magnetic than plain steel.
Exactly how much I don't know yet. Cheryl Welsh passes on this
address:
Cutting Edge Catalog
Befit Enterprises Ltd.
PO Box 5034
Southampton NY 11969
800-497-9516.
I have ordered the catalog. I suspect the alloy is more expensive
than steel and I don't know just how much more magnetic it is. It is
the magnetic properties of steel which are probably the reason for
my experimental successes.
Steel Chain
There is one other experimental success which may be of use to other
microwave burn victims: steel chain.
I have woven together a sort of chain mail 'hood' using about 50
feet of steel chain. (It must test magnetic.)
This chain is commonly available in hardware stores and comes either
chrome- or nickel-plated. It has twisted links, and is essentially
the same chain you find in dog choke collars and leashes.
It is smooth and comfortable against skin.
The twisted links reduce the amount of opening available to an
incoming microwave burn signal.
I've found that if the harassers are really intent on burning your
body behind the chain mail, they can raise the power enough to cause
some sensation but the amount of sensation is still less as long as
the chain is in good contact with your bare skin.
If the harassers are really intent on burning a selected spot, then
if you put under the chain mail either a patch of aluminum foil or
one of those very wide 'body and fender' washers (steel, zinc coated
usually) the combination of chain and spot shield will stop the burn.
(The smaller B&F washers fit well into the outer ear.)
I use a skin-tolerant 1/8" diameter cotton cord to do the weaving of
the chain mail. for quick testing it is not necessary to weave
anything - just hold the chain in a lump against the body part under
attack. Ensure contact is made with bare skin. The more pressure,
the greater contact area and the greater relief from the microwave
burns.
Steel Buttons
Finally, I've found a source of rivet-style 0.6" diameter nickel-
plated decorative buttons. I'm going to rivet these in the tightest
possible pattern on to a cloth backing. On the opposite side, I'll
rivet another layer of the buttons which will cover the gaps.
I'm hoping that will provide a lighter and more comfortable shield
than the chain, which can be heavy and does sometimes slip off while
sleeping.
August 27, 1996
Shielding vs. Non-Burning Harassment
The more I read the testimonials of other electro-magnetic
harassment victims in far worse shape than I, it appears that:
electromagnetically transmitted voices, and,
bizarre visual happenings
. . . are the most used harassment devices.
Furthermore, implants seem to be the 'channel' used to direct the
voices and possibly hypnoscaped visual effects into the heads of
victims, while avoiding others nearby.
Satellites seem a highly suspect source since the harassment is
inescapable. (Satellite signals are not strong, so shielding may
work well in case you are a victim of satellite signals.)
More and more and more, it seems that shielding is the one thing
we victims can try to eliminate the harassment at least part of the
day, normally the time spent sleeping.
I have had success in shielding from burns and muscle jerks to a
lesser extent using solid steel shielding. That has been detailed
in a recent note.
Stealth Paint
This note is to add a suggestion to readers who can afford to try
it:
Try radar-absorbing "stealth" paint on the outside of a sleeping
box. Also, line the ventilation openings with this stuff.
I cannot guarantee success, since my income is limited and it will
be some time before I can afford either the box or the paint.
Just in case there are victims who can afford to try this now, one
source is our friendly electromagnetic weapons store:
Consumertronics
2011 Crescent Drive
P.O. Drawer 537
Alamogordo NM
88310-0537
505-434-0234 voice or fax
505-438-1776 voice only
The paint is listed under the heading of "Stealth Paint Mix (SPM)"
on page 18 of my catalog. It's priced at:
$49 to mix in 1 quart of your paint
$395 for enough mix for 10 quarts
You supply whatever type of paint you want.
Caution: One Consumertronics customer returned an electronic item,
the broadband EM countermeasure device (BEMC) because it did not
work. [No refund, requiring a lawsuit.- E.L.]
That does not guarantee failure of all items from Consumertronics,
because any active (i.e. signal producing) countermeasure device will
not work on all incoming signals, just those for which it is set up.
Stealth paint, being a passive item, has a better chance of working
than the BEMC device.
Stealth paint works by absorbing incoming signals and changing their
energy to heat. It provides incoming signals with a really tough path
to follow, like trying to run fast through waist deep water. (You'll
eventually get there, but with far less remaining energy.)
I'm speculating that a solid steel box with a coating of stealth
paint might be good enough even to stop a satellite communicating
with an implant. (Assuming, of course, that conventional
electromagnetic signals are being used.)
Cell phones even work in elevators, so it may take some time before
we know how to really seal off ourselves completely from the incoming
signals.
August 27, 1996
Possible Shielding Setback
Just discovered a potentially serious setback while reading a lecture
by Dr. Eldon Byrd, Psychotronics guy (and E.E. too) who has done work
for the U.S. Navy. This lecture is part of the Leading Edge Research
Group web site at http://www.cco.net/~trufax
Near the end of the lecture, Dr. Byrd says that there is a way to
get microwave through anything - solid steel included. You start out
with an ELF carrier wave, which does the penetrating. On top of the
ELF wave you put a pulsed microwave signal. This is 'modulation in
reverse' of what is usually done with ordinary radio, TV, radar etc.
This gets the damaging pulses inside the steel box. His lecture says
General Motors is experimenting with using this type of signal to
zap army tank crews. (Hopefully they are using the signals to build
a defense.)
My suspicion is that there will be some way to at least reduce the
signal even in this potent 'brew' of electromagnetic assault. Any
other experimenters might want to keep their eye/mind open for some
way this type of signal might be shielded against.
Hopeful Note re: Shielding Setback
I'm not the world's top electronics expert, but to the best of my
knowledge, even though an ELF wave has high penetration, the power
level will fall off rapidly with distance, as with any other
electromagnetic wave.
What that means to an electronic harassment victim is that your
harassers will have to be fairly close, as in an adjacent apartment,
for plain ELF or ELF with microwave 'modulation' to get through your
shielding.
Those victims who can put a little distance, even a hundred feet,
between themselves and their harassers' transmitter do have some
hope that shielding will offer some protection.
August 30, 1996
Quick, Easy Test to See If Solid Steel Helps
Victims vary in their main methods of harassment (and intensity).
Before spending a bundle on a steel sleeping box, a 'daytime'
victim (one who has continuous attacks all the time) can quickly
test the idea by simply ducking into a steel cabinet (at work for
example.)
Solid closure of openings is critical to this test - microwave does
bounce around like light, and so is capable of entering at almost
any angle. Even a no-side-window panel van wouldn't be a true test
unless the driver compartment windows were covered with steel also.
Ideally the cabinet would be non-louvered, but if it is, an
aluminum foil cover temporarily held up against any openings may
prove or disprove the idea.
Note: If your sensations occur because of pre-programmed hypnotic
cues, this test may indicate no success.
I would be very grateful if any daytime victims try this if they
could let me know how this works for them. I'm at:
raven1-AT-netaccess.on.ca
Repeating a Recommendation
from Julianne McKinney
I read in a MindNet copy of a letter from Julianne McKinney to a
victim that commercially available copper scouring pads, especially
the larger sizes, can act as good shields.
(I will try these, but I still suspect a solid steel 'sleeping box'
would be about as good as it gets.)
What makes her recommendation important is that ventilation and
comfort are necessary for continued use. Scouring pads are light
in weight and allow for some air passage.
They might be useful in a forced ventilation pipe into a sleeping
box at both ends to help trap stray signals from entering that
way, and they are certainly much cheaper than anti-radar 'stealth
paint'.
My experience suggests that whatever shielding is used, it
consistently works much better if it is magnetic. I plan on
shopping around with a small magnet to test before buying. I would
guess that a silver-finish scrubber would work quite well if it
tested magnetic.
(Not every copper-coloured scouring pad is actually made of copper
or has copper plating.)
"Grounding"
As I try to work out defences to the EM harassment, I have heard a
number of sincerely helpful experts caution me to be sure my
shielding is grounded.
My experience has been that grounding has no effect at all, and
I believe I know why.
My harassers use both direct ELF and microwave, from apartments
above and below mine. Direct ELF will penetrate anything, so
grounding does no appreciable good for that.
Microwave has very physically short "waves", of the order of a
few centimeters down to tiny fractions of a meter. A piece of wire
in the path of a microwave signal will electrically 'vibrate',
also with physically short distances between nodes and null
points. (There is no signal at a "null" point, and maximum signal
at a "node".)
Grounding with microwave may force the nodes and nulls to shift
position a little, but that doesn't actually contribute to any
shielding effect.
Furthermore, both water pipes and the 'green ground' in your
power wiring are sometimes several stories above the deep, damp
'earth ground plane'. Lots and lots of nodes and nulls can exist
between you and that ground plane, which means that in reality,
you are not grounded as far as microwave goes. You are more
like the tip of an antenna.
It is worth trying, of course, but don't be surprised if even
top notch grounding doesn't affect your harassment level.
I'd appreciate hearing about your own experiences at:
raven1-AT-netaccess.on.ca
August 31, 1996
Forced Ventilation
If a solid steel box is to be used as a shielded sleeping
enclosure, you will certainly need a continuous supply of
fresh air. What follows here are my plans for ventilation as
soon as I can afford to try a test sleeping box.
Selection of a Fan
In general, most household fans are not designed to operate
against a fairly high pressure. In contrast, a vacuum cleaner
is, but the output air would be far too hot for comfort and the
noise level would make sleeping impossible.
The Comair-Rotron company sells fans for equipment cooling.
Forcing ventilation air through a 3-inch pipe (my choice) at
both ends of the sleeping box requires a fair amount of pressure,
and the noise level can't be higher than that which can be dealt
with using perhaps foam ear plugs and/or white noise inside the
box.
In general, you "can't" step down voltage with a variac or speed
control to an induction motor, because it will overheat. However,
through lots of experimentation over the past 3 years, I have never
had a fan motor burn out or even seem unusually hot while using a
variac to control speed. (This is probably due to the passing
airstream and the fact that the mechanical load drops off when
you slow down a fan.)
Due to the pressure requirements, I would recommend 'going for
the max' in the Rotron fan line right off the bat. That way you
will probably never suffer for lack of power. My recommendation
is to use the model I use at home (for forced outside air
ventilation):
Model: 'Tarzan' TN3C2 (lead wires) or TN3A2 (terminal block)
Power: 115 VAC 1.4 amps
Air flow: 280 CFM
Size: 6.91" square x 4.40" deep
Other: Ball bearings, auto reset
thermal protector
Price: (guess) $100 U.S.
A major electronics component distributor should be able to get
this fan for you. I have a several years-old catalogues for one
U.S. firm: Newark Electronics. (It's the Canadian version which
doesn't have U.S. addresses.)
Local ham radio operators and/or TV repair shops will probably
know how to contact Newark Electronics.
One word on specs: The amps rating is a rough but fair rating of
a fan's overall capacity to move air. If you are considering a
substitute, a comparable amp rating may do an adequate job.
Ventilation Ducting
The idea is to get the air in (and out) without providing a ready
path for stray microwave, which can bounce around inside ductwork
and get through just as light can.
My choice would be to have an electrician use his/her hole-saw to
put a 3-inch conduit size hole in both top and bottom of the
sleeping box.
At the outlet end, I would install just a 3-inch conduit "LB"
connector, which makes a sharp right angle turn and has a removable
steel cover. (Make sure all components test magnetic.)
At the inlet end, I would install a 3-inch conduit "LB" connector,
and "nipple" that directly fits into a domestic outdoor electric
meter socket, the hole in which is a fairly good size match for
the 'Tarzan' fan above. (Verify the size match before buying any
meter socket.)
The installer would then have to drill for four mounting studs
being very careful to match the fan's corner mounting bolt holes.
Personally I recommend drilling out the Tarzan's corner mounting
holes with a 17/64" drill to accommodate 1/4-20 threaded stove
bolts, which will easily handle the fan's fairly heavy weight.
It would be a good safety feature to cover the fan with stiff
wire screen.
Inside the box the pipe nipple should be secured with a rounded
bushing (which is normally used to prevent nicking of cable
insulation.)
At both ends, I would fill a short section of the 3-inch air
pathway with loosened pan scrubber pad material to reduce
microwave penetration. This material would need loosening up
to allow free airflow. Lots of room for experimentation here.
(Thank you, Julianne McKinney.)
I'm not sure right now how to fasten the scrubber pad material
to prevent it's being blown out. Anyone have any good ideas?
Ancillary Cables Into the Sleeping Box
You may want to put a variac and/or other devices (clock, white
noise mach. etc.) inside the box. This means another penetration
of the box.
I recommend the same type of treatment as with the air duct: Use
a small "LB" connector to prevent a straight shot in for
microwave signals.
Also, after the right angle "LB", along the outside of the box,
it is probably wise to run at least a foot of the smaller conduit
so that microwave has farther to go. (I would run more than a foot.)
This method will require that the appliance power plugs be cut
off and replaced after the cables pass through the small conduit.
Request for Feedback
So far, this series of notes on shielding is largely speculative.
Both my own experience and Julianne McKinney's shows that shielding
does work, sometimes only partially, but still worth the effort.
Based on that success, I'm proposing that a solid steel sleeping
box would probably do the best job possible. I will have to wait
for some time to try this, due to short finances.
I would be really grateful if anyone who tries various shielding
schemes would let me know at:
raven1-AT-netaccess.on.ca
September 1, 1996
Skin-Contact Shielding
My tests with shielding have so far shown that only solid sheet
steel can guarantee shielding effect when the shield is not in
skin contact but is in line with a known aiming direction.
However, when the shielding is in good contact with the skin,
all metals seem to act as shielding, possibly by short-circuiting
some of the induced current.
Skin contact shielding will not work very well unless you are
able to determine the aiming direction, (if in fact there is
one.) The reason is that, say, microwave entering your body from
a direction behind the shielding will travel through your body
and cause burning etc. from behind the shielding.
If you can't determine the aiming direction, you may have signals
coming at you from many directions. In that case, skin contact
shielding will probably help, but not stop, the burning.
Finding the Aiming Direction
I've had success with trying steel panels in various locations
around, above, and below my bed. If a new location gives you a
definite pause in the harassment effects, that is likely an
aiming direction.
The smallest steel test panel I've had success with is an oven
roasting pan.
My experience is that the harassers will move fairly quickly
to change aiming angle, sometimes within the hour.
Skin Contact Materials
Aluminum is a good candidate for skin-contact shielding as its
oxide coating prevents most skin irritation problems. Up to
about 1/32" thickness it can be shaped using metal shears (or
heavy weed stem cutters) and can easily be filed to remove
sharp edges.
(Large model builder hobby shops carry handy-sized small
(e.g. 4" x 10") pieces of sheet aluminum from 1/64" to
1/16" thick.)
It can be bent easily to conform to body contours, and remains
clean with extended use.
I've had experts tell me that the oxide layer hinders electrical
contact. That may be true for high-current electric power
connections, but it works well enough to provide relief from
microwave burns.
My own harassers target my nose and lips for regular microwave
burns. I've found one brand of dust mask made by Martindale
Protection Ltd. which is a punched flat sheet of aluminum shaped
to cover some lip, chin, and cheek areas. Doesn't cover the nose,
but this mask can have a nose cover fastened to it to provide
good coverage. (I will send a mask to anyone who needs such a
device. Any additional nose guards etc. will have to be made by
the recipient.)
I've also discovered that the complex curves of the face and
head can be protected by taking time to carefully bend and fit
1/16" (or larger) aluminum wire so that it runs along the natural
creases and edges of facial contours. When an open wire 'mask'
is worn and burning starts up, I just roll my head into my pillow
which puts a light pressure between the mask and my facial skin
and deadens the greater part of the burning.
An open wire mask which has been pre-moulded to your own facial
contours is so light and comfortable that you scarcely know you
are wearing it. Thin elastic waist band material or even those
long 6" rubber bands make good mask holders.
This is kind of an unpleasant thought, but some victims have had
sensitive body orifices specifically targeted for microwave burns.
(I haven't had a lot of trouble with this, though it does happen
at times.)
It might pay to look for various aluminum housewares which might
conform well enough to be used as conductive inserts. Aluminum
is quite easy to file and saw, and an almost-right utensil might
be used with a little work at a vise.
In the catalogue of my local hardware wholesaler are aluminum
bolts ranging from 1/4" to 1" in diameter, and up to 6" long.
Such bolts could conceivably be filed down for use as body
orifice protectors.
(Some rough shaping can be done on a rough grinding wheel. That's
not considered good shop practice, but who cares?)
Another handy skin contact shielding device are the galvanized
"body and fender" washers available in most hardware stores.
The most common size has a roughly 1/4" center hole, and is 1-1/4"
outside diameter. These washers do come in smaller sizes. The
widest selection would be from the catalogue of a hardware
wholesale supply house. I've found that most hardware retailers
will special order a box of 100 (say) of the smaller sizes.
I've found that one size with 11/64" inside diameter x 9/16"
outside diameter fits well inside the outer ear. (My harassers
sometimes target my ears for microwave burns.)
The relatively small centre hole doesn't seem to interfere
with shielding properties.
Julianne McKinney has reported that the copper-coloured metallic
pot scrubbers work as body-part shields. I haven't tried them yet;
the other materials including nickel- or chrome-plated dog collar
chain seem to work well enough.
(Those metallic pot scrubbers seem to be disappearing from
supermarket shelves.)
In general, copper and brass items should not be used in close
skin contact because they dissolve in wet situations and may
cause skin irritation and stains.
Any reader who has had success with various skin contact (or
other) shielding materials is asked if they would let me know.
I am in contact with a number of mind control victims who get
regular microwave burns as part of their treatment.
raven1-AT-netaccess.on.ca
Thanks.
--- from list avant-garde-AT-lists.village.virginia.edu ---
Display software: ArchTracker © Malgosia Askanas, 2000-2005